Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
